Leather Shoes Industry Standard (1)

Sewing leather shoes
1 Subject Content and Scope of Application
This standard specifies the basic quality requirements for sewing leather shoes.
This standard is applicable to general leather shoes made by sewing process.
This standard is not applicable to labor protection leather shoes.
2 Reference standards
GB2703 Leather Shoes Industrial Terminology
GB3293 Chinese shoe size and shoe last series
GB3904 Test Method for Folding Resistance of Footwear
GB3905 Method for Wear Resistance Test of Footwear
GB4689.4 Determination of leather thickness
ZBY75007 Leather Shoes Inspection Company
ZBY8003 steel hook heart of leather shoes
SG355 chrome tanned pig upper leather
SG356 chrome tanned pig suede upper leather
SG357 chrome tanned pig modified upper leather
SG358 chrome tanned cattle upper leather
SG359 chrome tanned cattle modified upper leather
SG360 chrome tanned goat upper leather
SG361 chrome tanned cashmere upper leather
ZBY45003 chrome tanned pig soft regular upper leather
3 Product classification
It is divided into men's, women's and children's leather boots and shoes.
4 Technical Requirements
4.1 The shoe size and last shall meet the requirements of GB3293.
4.2 Upper leather shall be selected according to the technical requirements of SG355, SG356, SG357, SG358, SG359, SG360, SG361 and ZBY45003.
4.3 Donkey, horse and camel upper leather shall refer to the technical requirements of cow upper leather.
4.4 The thickness of main components shall be selected within the range listed in Table 1.
Table 1 mm
Components Men's shoes Women's shoes and children's shoes
Upper cow (leather) pig (leather) sheep (leather) 1.0~1.81.0~1.50.9~1.2 0.9~1.41.0~1.50.7~1.2
Lining (leather) 0.6~0.9 0.5~0.9
Outsole natural leather outsole molded sole (piece) imitation leather sole (piece) microporous sole (piece) 3.5~4.54.5~6.03.8~5.07.0~12.0 3.0~3.83.5~5.52.8~4.05.5~10.0
4.5 Outsole thickness refers to the thickness of the forefoot force part, and the pattern depth shall not exceed one third of the outsole thickness.
4.6 Substitute materials can refer to the requirements of 4.2 and 4.4.
4.7 See Table 2 for the tolerance of each part of the same pair of shoes.
Table 2 mm
Part tolerance Part tolerance
Three section toe cap length boot back top height shoe back top height 1.02.51.5 front top length outsole length 1.51.51.0 bottom width back seam skew heel height 1.51.00.5
4.8 Physical and mechanical properties of outsole (except natural leather) shall meet the requirements in Table 3.
Table 3
Project indicators
Bending resistance (pre cut 5mm, continuous flexion 40000 times, crack length, mm), general requirements ≤ 12
Imitation leather bottom ≤ 40
Wear resistance (wear scar length, mm): general requirement ≤ 10
SBS bottom ≤ 16
Hardness Shore A non microporous bottom 55~72
Imitation leather bottom 75~90
Shore W microporous bottom 40~65
Note: The folding resistance of shoes below 23 is not measured.
4.9 The hook center shall meet the requirements of ZBY78003.
4.10 The appearance quality shall meet the requirements in Table 4. Among them, No. 1, 6, 7, 8, 9 are major items, and others are minor items.
Table 4
S/N Item Grade I Qualified Product
1. The color, thickness, grain surface and down thickness of the same part of upper leather and shoes are basically the same. The front upper is better than the back, and the outside is better than the inside. Slight loose surface and inconspicuous bright boil and blood tendon are allowed, but the color, thickness, grain surface and villus thickness of the same part of the same pair of shoes on the cracked surface are not allowed to be slightly different. The front upper is better than the back, and the outside is better than the inside. Slight loose surface, bright boil, blood tendon, whiplash and other defects are allowed, but no cracked surface is allowed
2 The color, pattern and thickness of the same part of the same pair of shoes on the outsole are basically the same. Minor defects are allowed in the secondary part of the leather sole. Slight differences are allowed in the color, pattern and thickness of the same part of the same pair of shoes. The forefoot of the skin bottom is allowed to have slight defects
3 The upper sewing line is basically neat. The needle code shall be uniform, and the tightness of the bottom and surface lines shall be basically the same. Skipping stitches are not allowed at the main obvious parts. The secondary and obvious parts shall not have skipped stitches. One stitch is allowed for skipping stitches and heavy stitches at secondary parts, and each shoe shall not have more than two stitches
4 The flanging, chiseling along the mouth and chiseling are basically uniform, neat and symmetrical. No cracked edges shall be basically uniform, neat and symmetrical. Slight edge cracks are allowed
5. The accessories are firmly assembled and basically symmetrical
6. The upper is straight and flat, and the same part of the same pair of shoes is basically the same
7. The needle code of the inside and outside stitches along the seam shall be uniform, tight and consistent, and there shall be no jumping or missing stitches
8. The inner head of the hard main heel shall have proper hardness and shall not shrink or deform
9 The heel assembly is firm and straight, and the size and height are basically symmetrical. The assembly is firm and basically symmetrical
10 The inside and outside of the shoes are clean, smooth, basically firm, and basically symmetrical
11 The batten upper and bottom are tightly combined without gaps
5 Test method
5.1 Appearance inspection
Follow ZBY75007.
Verification
Follow ZBY75007.
5.2 Physical and mechanical performance test
5.2.1 Outsole folding resistance test shall be conducted in GB3904.
5.2.2 Wear resistance test of outsole shall be conducted in GB3905.
5.2.3 Outsole hardness test: Use a hand pressed Shore hardness tester to press on the flat part of the sole at a constant speed, read the meter value immediately after pressing (test ambient temperature: 23 ± 2 ℃), and take the arithmetic mean of at least three points as the test result, with significant figures to one place.
5.3 Measurement of component thickness
5.3.1 The leather thickness shall be measured according to GB4689.4.
5.3.2 Other thickness shall be measured with thickness gauge or vernier caliper (precision ± 0.02mm).
6 Inspection rule 6.1 The appearance quality of finished products shall be inspected in pairs.
6.2 Physical and mechanical properties shall be tested on three pairs of shoes (folding and abrasion resistant shoes can also be molded soles of the same batch) at random every day. Each test shoe is qualified if it meets the requirements in Table 3 If there is any nonconformity in the first test, double sampling can be conducted to recheck the nonconforming items. If the re inspection result is unqualified, the batch of products will be degraded.
6.3 The shoes with one major item or three minor items in Table 4 failing to reach the quality shall be degraded.
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage
7.1 Marks
7.7.1 Each pair of shoes shall be marked with the following contents:
Manufacturer name or registered trademark;
Shoe size and shape;
Quality grade and corresponding standard (i.e. this standard) number;
Inspection seal.
7.1.2 The inner package shall be marked with the following contents:
Manufacturer name or registered trademark;
Product name;
Shoe size and shape;
Quality grade and corresponding standard (i.e. this standard) number;
The color of the shoes.
7.1.3 The above contents shall be marked on the outer package:
Manufacturer name;
Product name;
Registered trademark;
Shoe size;
Quality grade and corresponding standard (i.e. this standard) number;
number;
Case number, gross weight, volume and packing date;
Storage and transportation requirements signs, etc.
7.2 Packaging, transportation and storage
7.2.1 Paper box is used for internal packaging, and mothproof agent and mildew inhibitor can be added if necessary.
7.2.2 Corrugated cartons or wooden cases shall be used for outer packaging, and moisture-proof paper shall be lined if necessary.
7.2.3 During transportation and storage, it is not allowed to be heavily pressed, damped, exposed to rain, exposed to the sun or put together with oil, acid, alkali and other corrosive substances.
7.2.4 The warehouse shall be ventilated and dry, and the product shall be 0.2m above the ground and wall.
7.2.5 The inventory time shall not exceed one year. Unpacking and inspection shall be carried out once a quarter, and moisture-proof, injection proof and mould proof measures shall be strengthened if necessary.
7.3 Other relevant marking, packaging, transportation and storage requirements shall be negotiated by the buyer and seller.
Adhesive leather shoes
1 Subject Content and Scope of Application
This standard specifies the basic quality requirements for adhesive leather shoes
This standard is applicable to general leather shoes made by adhesive process
This standard is not applicable to labor protection leather shoes
2 Reference standards
GB2703 Leather Shoes Industrial Terminology
GB3293 Chinese shoe size and shoe last series
GB3903 Test Method for Peel Strength of Leather Shoes
GB3904 Test Method for Folding Resistance of Footwear
GB3905 Test Method for Wear Resistance of Footwear
GB4689.4 Determination of leather thickness
ZBY75007 Test Method for Leather Shoes
ZBY78003 steel hook center of leather shoes
SG355 chrome tanned pig upper leather
SG356 chrome tanned pig suede upper leather
SG357 chrome tanned pig modified upper leather
SG358 chrome tanned cattle upper leather
SG359 chrome tanned cattle modified upper leather
SG360 chrome tanned goat upper leather
SG361 chrome tanned cashmere upper leather
ZBY45003 chrome tanned pig soft regular upper leather
3 Product classification
It is divided into men's and girls' various adhesive leather boots and shoes.
4 Technical Requirements
4.1 The shoe size and last shall meet the requirements of GB3293.
4.2 The upper leather shall be selected according to the technology of SG355, SG356, SG358, SG359, SG360, SG361 and ZBY45003.
4.3 Donkey, horse and camel upper leather shall refer to the technical requirements of cow upper leather.
4.4 The thickness of main components shall be selected within the range listed in Table 1.
Table 1 mm
Components Men's shoes Women's shoes and children's shoes
Upper cow (leather) pig (leather) sheep (leather) 1.0~1.81.0~1.50.9~1.2 0.9~1.41.0~1.50.7~1.2
Lining (leather) 0.6~0.9 0.5~3.8
Outsole natural leather outsole molded sole (piece) imitation leather sole (piece) microporous sole (piece) 3.5~4.54.5~6.03.8~5.07.0~12.0 3.0~3.83.5~5.52.8~4.05.5~10.0
4.5 Outsole thickness refers to the thickness of the forefoot force part, and the pattern depth shall not exceed one third of the outsole thickness.
Generation 4.6
Refer to 4.5 and 4.4 for materials.
4.7 See Table 2 for the difference of each part of the same pair of shoes.
Table 2 mm
Part tolerance Part tolerance
The length of the front upper, the length of the three section toe cap, the height of the back upper of the shoe, 1.51.01.5, the height of the back upper of the shoe, the length of the outsole, 2.51.51.0, the thickness of the outsole, the back seam, and the height of the heel, 0.51.51.0
4.8 Physical and mechanical properties of outsole (except natural leather) shall meet the requirements in Table 3.
Table 3 mm
Project indicators
Folding resistance (pre cut 5mm, continuous flexion 40000 times, crack length, mm) generally requires imitation leather sole ≤ 12 ≤ 40
Wear resistance (wear scar length, mm): SBS bottom ≤ 10 ≤ 16
Peel strength (N/cm) for men and women ≥ 54 ≥ 49
Hardness Shore A non microporous bottom 55~72
Imitation leather bottom 75~90
Shore W microporous bottom 40~65
Note: The folding resistance of shoes under size 1 and 23 is not measured.
2. For varieties whose peel strength cannot be measured, the peel strength will not be assessed.
3. The peeling strength of women's shoes shall not be less than 40N/cm in any of the following cases;
The upper is made of sheep leather, synthetic leather, etc;
The bottom thickness is greater than or equal to 3mm;
The width of the outsole 20 mm behind the front end of the outsole is less than or equal to 40 mm.
4.9 The hook center shall meet the requirements of ZBY78003.
4.10 The appearance quality shall meet the requirements of Table 4, in which No. 1, 5, 6, 8, 9 are the main items and others are secondary
To project.
Table 4
S/N Item Grade I Qualified Product
1. The color, thickness, grain size and thickness of the same part of the upper leather are basically the same as those of the same pair of shoes. The front upper is better than the back upper, and the outside is better than the inside. Slight loose surface and inconspicuous bright boil and blood tendon are allowed, but the color, thickness, grain surface and villus thickness of the same part of the same pair of shoes on the cracked surface are not allowed to be slightly different. The front upper is better than the back, and the outside is better than the inside. Slight loose surface, bright boil, blood tendon, whiplash and other defects are allowed, but no cracked surface is allowed
2 The folding edge is basically neat and even along the mouth, and no cracks are allowed. The edges are basically consistent, and slight cracks are allowed
3 The sewing line of the upper is neat, the needle code is even, the tightness of the bottom line is consistent, and there is no jumper in the main obvious parts. One stitch is allowed for jumper and heavy stitch at secondary parts, and each shoe shall not exceed two stitches
4. The accessories are firmly assembled and basically symmetrical
5 Keep the upper straight and flat. The same part of the same pair of shoes is basically the same
6. The hardness of the inner head of the hard main heel is appropriate, and no shrinkage deformation is allowed
7 The color, pattern and thickness of the same part of the outsole and the rubber soles of the shoes are basically the same. Minor defects are allowed in the secondary part of the leather sole, and the color, pattern and thickness of the same part of the rubber sole of the shoes are basically the same. Minor defects are allowed in the leather sole
8 The heel assembly is firm and flat. Symmetrical size, height and height
9. No glue opening during bonding
10 The inside and outside of the shoes are clean, smooth, basically firm, and basically symmetrical
5 Test method
5.1 Appearance inspection shall be carried out according to ZBY75007.
5.2 Physical and mechanical performance test
5.2.1 Peel strength test shall be conducted according to GB3903 (knife edge width 10mm).
5.2.2 Outsole folding resistance shall be tested according to GB3904.
5.2.3 Wear resistance test of outsole shall be conducted according to GB3905
5.2.4 Outsole hardness test: press evenly on the flat part of the sole with a hand pressed Shore hardness tester, and read immediately after pressing
Table value (test ambient temperature: 23 ± 2 ℃), take the arithmetic mean of at least three test points as the test result,
Significant digits to one digit.
5.3 Measurement of component thickness
5.3.1 The leather thickness shall be measured according to GB4689.4.
5.3.2 Thickness gauge or vernier caliper (accuracy ± 0.0.2) shall be used for other thicknesses