Deng Dazhi, Senior Fashion Designer In Hongkong, About Design Experience

Moderator: Mr. Deng Dazhi is welcome to our Sina chat room. I would like to ask Mr. Deng Dazhi, how many times did you come to China?

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What kind of work has this brought?

Deng Dazhi: I made a press conference yesterday. The name of the conference is: remembering the fleeting times.

Because I have been in this industry for 20 years, which is a chance to look back.

I used Anita Mui's song of water for the first time many years ago. This time it was the same, but the clothes were completely different from before.

The clothes in front are all black and use deconstruction.

I feel that China has all kinds of clothes now, but it hasn't felt like a street dress yet. There is not a Chinese street dress yet.

Street clothing is the best way to show a place, the fashion level of ordinary people.

So I did it in this direction.

I feel that when Chinese fashion becomes more and more mature in the future, there will surely be a mature image of Chinese street clothes, and such a clothing category will be independent.

Although I say that memory is like a fleeting time, actually I look forward to it. I want to make a career ahead of schedule. That is my ideal.

The second part is beautiful women's clothes, very emotional women's clothing, and rich and highly publicized women's wear. In fact, this is the dream of many designers, because it's hard to wear them at ordinary times. After watching this show, I feel very beautiful.

The front is ideal, followed by a dream as a designer.

Host: can you talk about the brand you are running now?

Deng Dazhi: now I am making two brands of William Tsng and Gusta Tiona: one is my own name, William is mainly made of gowns and women's clothing, and William is the cooperation between Hongkong and Guangzhou.

In Hangzhou, I worked with a client to collaborate with a famous brand, called Gusta Tiona, which is also divided into two lines, the first line is white collar women's wear.

Close; the second line is GT2, which is an avant-garde garment, divided into two lines.

Moderator: do you make two different styles of brand is not only a designer's ideal, is to do street clothing?

On the other hand, should we be close to the market?

Deng Dazhi: that's right.

Because feminization is very easy to accept, the market is very important to us. Without the market, we can not do it or dream.

The lead William is integrated into the requirements of the market, according to the requirements of the market.

GT2 is an ideal for me. It's an ideal for people to wear clothes in the future.

Host: do you feel that our mainland is still conservative in dress?

If you want to wait until the street style is also very market-oriented, is there still a period?

Deng Dazhi: I think it will take a while.

I feel that Chinese teenagers are very strong. They will soon be able to reach that level.

I feel that young people in China are developing very fast now. They can see new things in a very short time.

So, we are still doing William 20 to more than 40 years old clothing, but I feel they are wearing international, very casual feeling.

Like many stars, the clothes they want to wear are not found in the market now. They can be readily accepted when they find them.

Host: what is your brand pricing?

GT2 is cheaper. It is done according to teenagers. The price from more than 200 to more than 600 is the most common. Maybe some clothes will be more than 900 in winter and not more than 1000.

But Gusta Tiona is a slightly upscale woman's dress, which has been around 3000 since more than 600.

Evening dress prices are relatively high, more than 8000 yuan.

Host: what is the sales situation in the mainland now?

Deng Dazhi: just started.

William has been in the market for some time, and sales are good.

GT2 has just been pushed out, we have been preparing for several years, but it is also popular.

Host: are these two brands promoted by the mainland as the main market?

Deng Dazhi: first of all, I started with the mainland. I also have sales in Southeast Asia, in Europe and Germany, and in Germany, sales in the form of agents.

Hongkong is different from the mainland. We like exporting very much and doing business overseas.

It seems that domestic designers are quite different from us.

We started from the beginning of the international line, the ultimate goal of our enterprises is to do domestic brands to fight abroad.

Moderator: many brands in our country have been mentioning "going international" and "going abroad", but many brand operators feel that this is a difficult task for domestic brands.

How do you view the trend of brand internationalization?

Deng Dazhi: Actually

It is easy to go international.

When I started to be a designer, I didn't do it in Hongkong, but I did it abroad.

Because I read abroad, and some people live abroad, so they ask for things that are the same as ours, so it will not be very difficult.

The clothes made by Chinese people have basically surpassed Italy. Many aspects have already done very well. We not only outnumber Italy, but we are getting better and better in terms of quality.

The next step is to design and grasp the style of European dressing.

How does Chinese design integrate the needs of foreign markets, and how can we feel that there is fashion and culture in the clothes we wear.

These two things are very important.

That is to say, China is already at a very high level. The next step is to improve the design level.

The next step requires us to make efforts in these areas.

Host: do you sell this brand abroad in the same way as sold in China?

Deng Dazhi: basically the same, there is no distinction.

Easy to accept clothing in Europe is easy to accept in the north of China. It is easy for the south to accept it easily in Southeast Asia.

Our design is different in the region. In China, it is not all the clothes, but the South and the north are different.

I grew up in a foreign country, and I used to look at the body structure of the higher and stronger people. So the clothes I designed were also worn by very tall people, so the models were very beautiful and very happy, and it was easier to sell them abroad.

Moderator: please analyze the difference between domestic and foreign people's preferences for clothing styles.

Deng Dazhi: they prefer simple and classic things abroad. Many times, classic things will feel expensive in China. This is actually a matter of fashion culture. When fashion culture is high, we can understand simple clothes and understand where it is valuable.

But if the fashion level is not cultural, we can only see how many accessories there are.

How many pockets and cloth are there to measure clothes are expensive and inexpensive. He did not consider the idea of many designers. In fact, that idea is the most expensive and the idea is the most expensive.

For a simple but highly designed garment, he did not think of the culture contained in it. He thought the fabric was so simple, but the price was very frightening.

When we Chinese dress up to a level, we will understand how a dress is designed. Why is this design more expensive than other designs? The reason is that it has the value of investment and collection.

Moderator: can you talk about the international brands, or international famous designers, who do you admire?

Deng Dazhi: the new generation of designers I admire now is "Rick Ovens". He is an American.

Dries Van Noden is Belgium and Helmlit Lang is Austria.

My favorite designer in the past was "Chuan Jiu Bao Ling" in Japan. She was a very important designer in 80s and 90s.

And Romeo Gigli in Italy.

The biggest designer who influenced me was "Mariano Fortuny". He was from Spain.

Mariano Fortuny is a person from 1887 to 1949. His clothes are very influential. People who make fashions know that he has a lot of influence.

In fact, he was also made according to the style of ancient Rome, ancient Greece and Egypt.

Some modern international designers, such as John Galliano, are very good designers. They are the same generation as me. LV and Armani both have very big designer, but they are not moving me.

What moved me most was Mariano Fortuny.

He was Spaniard. He spent most of his life in Venice. Basically, I went to see his Museum once a year, basically watching his works, museums in New York, and England.

The museum, as well as the Museum of clothing in Kyoto, Japan, has a lot of clothing there, usually in the range of 50 to 1 million dollars.

His clothes are all works of art, but works of art can be turned into ordinary clothes.

The most difficult part of the designer is how to make the ideal artwork have a point of intersection with daily life. It is very difficult to realize this, so I have to give up looking for such a crossing point at many times, only let them balance, and the two lines go together.

But Mariano Fortuny is not, he can let dreams and reality go together.

Host: would you like to talk about the application of deconstruction in the field of costume design?

Deng Dazhi: since the 80s of last century, street clothes in London are popular among young people's punk fashion.

Before 80s, the Londoners and the civilian population were very much separated.

After 80s, they had a point of intersection.

How do we get together?

It started with punk culture.

The fashion of dressing is actually a reflection of the way of life.

The biggest difference between street clothes and past clothes is deconstruction. Many students have no money at that time, go to flea market, buy clothes to come back to do it again, deconstruct and deconstruct the past clothes, this is the beginning of street clothes.

Fashion in London has affected Japanese designers. The clothes made by Japanese designers before 80s have been very old-fashioned suits.

But in 80s, street clothes in London changed the direction of Japanese designers, especially from the works of Chuan Chuan Bao Ling and other designers. Their designers were greatly influenced by the British.

At that time, the way of deconstruction of British clothing was called Neo romanticism, and the main color of YISHION was black and white.

It's all very hot.

After that, Belgium's design came out, and Japan's deconstruction became Belgium's deconstruction.

Belgium has also produced many famous deconstruction fashion designers.

Now in Europe, Belgium fashion is very important. Although their country is very small, there are many Belgian people in modern designers.

Moderator: some of our domestic garment enterprises or groups have had experience with big designer. How do you see this way of doing business?

Deng Dazhi: many times, I feel that it's more appropriate to call some designers fashion fashion.

I feel that the design should be able to move people, is a kind of moving from the clothes, rather than a celebrity, not everyone's fame, some fame is just a kind of big package, is created.

I feel that the cooperation between enterprises and famous designers is the most popular from 1999 to 2003. Many enterprises are not necessarily able to bring their interests with the famous designers.

Fame is useless, because if things are not sold out, and many designers will not do it well.

I felt it was over in 2003.

Host: what do you think of the design and management of domestic brands?

Deng Dazhi:

It is the most immature aspect of fashion in China.

Design management is very important. Many times it is not a designer's problem, but a design management problem.

How to ensure that the direction of the brand will not change, this is what design management should do, and design management is to grasp the direction of the brand.

A design manager should be very good at economic management and design assurance.

In fact, many domestic enterprises invite famous designers not to be unable to do so.

But for overseas, when they asked famous designers to help, there was a group of people besides the designer who helped him to promote the market.

It is impossible for a designer to have a good grasp of the market at 9:33 2006-5-13, and to find a specialist in marketing and operation to bring clothes to the market. This is a good way.