Hui Costume
The origin of the old and mysterious Islamic civilization is long. In the long history of hundreds of years, the clothing of the Hui nationality has undergone changes, but the only thing that has not changed is the Hui soul, which is inlaid in the hearts of the Hui people.
Hui clothing is a unique cultural phenomenon of the Hui nationality. Hui nationality's clothing culture is a treasure house with a long history, colorful and rich deposits.
The development and variety of the Hui costumes are influenced by the times, regions and the habits of the fraternal brotherhood. But fundamentally or wholly, they are deeply influenced by the Islamic culture.
Blanche Penny, a professor of University of Washington and professor of the history of the history of clothing, once said with deep emotion, "the study of the history of clothing can be said to be equal to an expedition, which involves a wide range of fields and is interested in it."
Because the clothing of the Hui nationality is half the pace of development, it can help us grasp the main vein of Hui's historical development from a macro perspective.
The study of Hui costumes is not limited to the level of visual clothing such as costumes and headwear. Instead, they expand their horizons and incorporate Hui shoes, accessories, wedding and funeral costumes, stage costumes and student suits into the scope of investigation, thus enriching the research contents of the Hui nationality's dress culture.
All ethnic costumes are so varied that they are influenced not only by the regional environment and social changes, but also by their own unique aesthetic standards.
What is the original Hui costume? It is still a mystery.
Ningxia is the largest Hui colony in China. There are 2 million 160 thousand Hui people in the whole region.
Nowadays, walking on the streets of Yinchuan, capital city, it is difficult to find ethnic differences from clothing alone.
With the increasing level of material and cultural life, some Hui people wear distinctive national costumes in major social activities, festivals, foreign exchanges, weddings and funerals.
Ethnic complex in clothing
As a Hui born in the field, Ma Shumin, a national stage art designer at China Conservatory of Music, has deep feelings for the Hui nationality itself.
In order to design the Hui clothing, she was more than 67 years old. She went to various counties and districts in Ningxia to feel the customs of the Hui nationality.
The Imam costume designed by Ma Shumin is dignified and dignified. The female dress is beautiful, modern and modern, without losing the characteristics of the Hui nationality.
Her ideal is to make the Hui people wear more beautiful and ethnic costumes before the world.
She has won the first prize in succession for the two time in the Hui costume design and Exhibition competition.
"A lot of Hui people show me that they need beautiful, modern and ethnic costumes."
Ma Shumin said, "Hui ethnic costumes should conform to the national characteristics of the Hui nationality and should have their own style to develop."
In modern times, designers began to add modern elements to traditional Hui costumes.
For example, the increase of colors, the increase of lines, the exquisite texture of clothing, and so on, make Hui clothing more beautiful and fashionable.
Nowadays, the costumes of Hui people have changed a lot.
As for the Hui nationality headwear, both men and women show a tendency toward pluralism.
Men's white hat was mostly pure white, and now they can often see black, gray, green, red or all kinds of colors. The production process is also coexisting with fabric, weaving and embroidery.
The cover of the female was originally black, white and green. Now, apart from these colors, red, blue, pink, brown and other colors can also be seen. The fabric also changes from cloth to yarn, and from the traditional style to the scarf.
Hong Tao said, "
Hui Costume
Though great changes have taken place, they will never change.
In the Hui costume, it mainly embodies the Islamic concept of "long and dense" clothing, and stresses the concealment of the "shy body".
We seldom see too much exposure to modern costumes in the Hui minority settlements.
An Yuge believes that clothing is not only an external garment, but also a manifestation of a nation's connotation and spirit.
The dress development of a nation can not be divorced from its religious beliefs, national habits and color recognition.
The most obvious ethnic style of Hui nationality today is Hui nationality.
Headwear
。
Men generally like to wear a round hat made of white cloth, and Hui women often wear a cover.
With the continuous development of society, the Hui nationality's clothing is greatly influenced by the Han costume culture. Except for the Hui nationality's head ornaments, religious personnel and the clothing of the elderly Muslim, the Hui ethnic group in the settlement area and the clothing of the Hui nationality scattered in the town are not very strong.
What is the original Hui costume is still a mystery.
Hong Tao, an expert in the study of Hui clothing in the Ningxia Academy of Social Sciences, found that because Hui people had no custom to bury themselves in worldly clothes, researchers could not find an exact example of the early Hui dress in archaeology.
At the same time, because Islam forbids idolatry, there are no images and photos of early Hui people in historical documents.
"From the clothes of the professional religious personages in the mosque, we can also see the clues of some early Hui men's clothing. As for the early Hui women's dress, it is impossible to speak at the moment," Hong Tao said.
According to the current academic circles, the formation of the Hui nationality was in the late Yuan and early Ming Dynasty, and the appearance of Hui costumes was synchronized with the formation of the Hui people.
The clothing of the Hui nationality was influenced by the dressing style of the Chinese and western ethnic groups and the local people. However, the dress of the Hui nationality did not change to the Han costume because of national integration.
In the early days of the formation of Hui nationality, many Islamic cultural elements were retained and cultural elements of various ethnic groups in Arabia and Persia.
In the early days of the Hui people's formation, their costumes retained many foreign cultural elements.
The Hui nationality's clothing today can be seen mainly in Arabia style and Malaysia style.
Arab style is mainly robe, horse style is mainly knee length.
Cardigan
。
The clothing of the Hui nationality has multiple functions.
One is to protect the body.
This is an objective necessity for human production, life and survival.
According to different seasons, they choose different clothes, wear single clothes in summer, and Hui people in winter wear cotton padded clothes and leather shoes, leather shoes and so on.
Hui women wear windbreaks and scarves for windbreaks.
The two is the function of decoration.
There are many people who love beauty, and Hui people are no exception. This is the inherent requirement of beautifying ourselves.
If a man wears a shirt and a green shoulder, a woman has a decorative factor in order to embroider flowers on the clothes.
The three is the belief factor. Hui people go to the mosque or celebrate the national festivals. They need to wear Dahl, wear white socks, wear wheat socks, and women cover their heads. Therefore, besides the protection of body and decoration, there are also factors of belief, which constitute the folk custom of Hui nationality's dress.
The clothing of the Hui nationality has formed men's clothing and women's clothing according to the sex, and the clothing of men and women is very different. According to the age, children's clothing, adult clothing and clothing for the elderly are formed.
Here is an overview of the main clothing items in the two categories of men's and women's clothing.
The dress of Hui nationality moves from tradition to modernity.
In the Tongxin County of Ningxia, this quiet and mysterious County town accounts for 84.5% of the 354 thousand population.
In the streets, most married women wear light blue hats and ordinary clothes. Men generally wear small white caps and Chinese tunic suits.
In the Tongxin Arabic school, young girls wore white and pink heads and some wore long gowns.
The Nanjia mosque, located in Yongning County, Yinchuan, Ningxia, was built in the Ming Dynasty.
The young Imam of the mosque wore a white hat embroidered with lace and was dressed in a clean Chinese tunic suit. Most of the men in the temple were similarly dressed.
This year's 27 year old Ma Wen is a journalist from a media in Ningxia.
As a native of the Hui nationality, she appeared in front of people, and she was no different from the beautiful and modern city girl she saw on weekdays.
In her memory, grandma and mother were used to wearing a cover, worshipping, and living a traditional Muslim life.
An Yuge, an associate researcher of the Ningxia intangible cultural heritage protection center, said that most of the Hui women's clothing was mainly made of horses, and the clothes inside were longer than the clothes outside. This is a tradition, but the young people nowadays feel too old and unwilling to wear them.
After the formation of the Hui nationality, the costumes of the Hui nationality have undergone great changes.
In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the two dynasties had clear stipulates in costumes, and there were quite strict restrictions on national costumes.
Because the Hui nationality is distributed in a state of large dispersion and small habitation, Hui nationality's clothing culture is also assimilated by the strong culture of the periphery.
"The process of development and change of the Hui costumes is Arabia.
Persian culture
The process of continuous Sinicization is the process of constant etiquette and religious life in everyday life, "Hong Tao said.
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