Zhang Zhifeng, Chief Designer Of NE TIGER

　　 Every dress is the story of the ancients.

Zhang Zhifeng is a well-known buyer of major clothing auctions. In fact, Zhang Zhifeng is the most distinctive among all buyers because his collection is only for research purposes, not for investment and appreciation, so Zhang Zhifeng is highly respected in the clothing collection circle. Because of this fame, many people have come to trust and trust their ancestral clothes to Zhang Zhifeng for their research and reasonable safekeeping. Collecting clothing is a very careful job. "With the loss of time, these fabrics have become very fragile and will be broken if they are careless."

Of the collections of Zhang Zhifeng, more than 200 have been able to determine the value of collection. Many people in the circle know that Zhang Zhifeng can really read these ancient costumes, study and inherit them. Costume culture People.

Zhang Zhifeng's collection is very orientated, that is, ancient Chinese clothing and costumes, which include people from all walks of life and all kinds of occupations. From the royal family to the Buyi, these ancient clothes and their stories were collected by Zhang Zhifeng in layers.

"I can often see from these clothes how the past people lived, what had happened to them, and even a dialogue with ancient culture through time and space." Zhang Zhifeng often studied ancient production and embroidery techniques, and transplanted to the present design. "When I saw these collections, I often felt the exquisite skills of the ancients".

There is a hundred bird suit in his collection. The so-called white bird clothing is the entire dress embroidered hundreds of birds, this is the custom of the Song Dynasty - the queen wore a hundred bird clothing, and has been extended to the Ming Dynasty.

"In this 100 bird suit, each bird has different looks and gestures." Zhang Zhifeng was very impressed by the imagination of embroidery workers. "In today's society, it is hard for anyone to maintain such a calm state of mind, concentrating on embroidery, concentrating not only on embroidery as a job, but also on an artistic creation."

Although embroidery has been studied for many years, Zhang Zhifeng often regrets that ancient embroidery techniques are still hard to surpass. "The most difficult thing to surpass is the state of mind. Modern people are affected by a lot of information. It is hard for them to calm their minds, to put them in embroidery, and to use their imagination."

For another dress embroidered with peony bloom, Zhang Zhifeng is amazed: "a peony, embroidered with 8 levels, 8 different colors, so that peony is lifelike, full of three-dimensional feeling."

　　 Learning ancient skills from collection

Because Clothing design Zhang Zhifeng's professional requirements, as early as ten years ago, began the collection and research of ancient clothing and accessories. His brand, NE TIGER, also plays an important role in the first show of Beijing fashion week every year. The higher the status of the fashion industry, the more indifferent Zhang Zhifeng is.

In the fashion circle, Zhang Zhifeng is one of the few people who do not want to be flashy. In simple clothes, he often talks about the spirit of the ancients with the master of Chinese studies, and studies the different state of mind of Zhang Zhifeng given by Sinology. Zhang Zhifeng never shows off his collection to the outside world, even if it is mentioned. Costumes and Sinology are more like a way leading to the ancients' mood. With the increase of research, Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism are also infiltrated into his blood.

"Studying ancient clothes will make my mood calm down immediately." Zhang Zhifeng usually takes half a month to close his cell phone, only with his brushes and collections, eating only one meal a day, resting at the same time just meditating.

Zhang Zhifeng believed that modern industry could not produce products that were close to ancient ideas. Therefore, in the fashion customization, he is willing to go far and wide to find the most experienced and capable embroidery maker. While copying ancient embroidery skills, Zhang Zhifeng first copied "mood".

NE TIGER staff first found the best old artists in embroidery at the qiangzhai village. They set up a embroidery team for NE TIGER and embroidered them according to orders.

"The first thing to do is to change the concept of embroidery among these folk artists." Zhang Zhifeng said, "these folk artists have been engaged in embroidery for many years, but most of their embroidery works are tourist souvenirs, which are very rough. I told them that what we want is quality, and the indoctrination of this idea is not easy.

So Zhang Zhifeng paid the old artists more production costs, hoping that they could embroider different works. "But it is still very difficult. The old artists will find it strange that they can only get more income by slowly embroidering." Sometimes, Zhang Zhifeng even risked the collapse of the highway to go to Wenchuan Qiang village. What he did was to communicate with the embroidery workers.

Through the excavation of ancient costumes, some of the lost embroidery methods have appeared in today's advanced customization.

　　 Zhang I always hope that my collection is not just hiding in the underground room. "I am waiting for a suitable time to show the collection, so that China's exquisite clothing production technology will be displayed in front of the world."