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Design Elements: Return, Freedom And Innovation Become The Theme Of New York Fashion Week

2023/2/21 15:34:00 1

In the past three years, New York Fashion Week seems to have "disappeared" from public view. The "fade out" of famous American fashion brands such as Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Michel Kors, Tory Burch, the difficulty of waist designer brands to withstand the pressure, and the shortening of the fashion week schedule have made New York Fashion Week lose its competitiveness in the market and public opinion.

Celebrities who used to linger in the front row of the fashion week show have disappeared. The fashion editors who want to get first-hand information and report are also sighing for the lack of New York Fashion Week. The New York Fashion Week, which used to be "four legged" with London, Paris and Milan, is no longer glorious.

However, this downturn is changing this season at the New York Fashion Week in autumn and winter 2023. Return, freedom and innovation have become the theme of New York.

Thom Browne, who moved the women's wear series to Paris since 2017, returned to the main battlefield on Valentine's Day. Maybe it was just the appointment of the CFDA chairman that I like to mention. The designer Thom Browne hopes to take this opportunity to make some "achievements", Huge dramatic silhouette, unconventional shoulder lines, irregular creative stitching, and childlike yet perverse print design , really earn enough attention and topics.

Four years after leaving the New York Fashion Week show, Alexander Wang returned to the show with his autumn 2023 women's and men's clothing series. Chinatown Center, New York, A fashion show themed "love and romance" kicked off 。 The close fitting silk dress and underwear are integrated with the love pattern design and butterfly lace details, which are matched with common men's clothing elements to add a sharp texture to women's clothing.

The men's ready to wear series, which is quite interesting, also subverts the public's inherent understanding of men's clothing through the upgrading of fabric and the deconstruction of binary opposition gender. Alexander Wang skillfully combines the gender temperament and explores the rich and multifaceted expression of ready to wear fashion after crossing gender, which is his most sincere expression after returning to the base camp.

However, it also reflects that New York Fashion Week has given designers more inclusive soil. Those unconstrained creativity, bold design and younger creative power have become harmonious and interesting here.

On February 10, Collins Strada turned the autumn and winter 2023 show into a "zoo" with the theme of "Please Don't eat my Friends".

The models wore ready-made clothes made of waste materials and sustainable fabrics, and wore animal limb props made by Isamaya Ffrench to act as animal catwalks. Putting aside the "judgment" of banter and entertainment, the designer hopes to appeal to the public to pay attention to animal protection issues through this display. In addition to the transmission at the hidden level such as fabric, this eye-catching presentation is undoubtedly a sustainable interpretation of fashion.

When London Fashion Week was labeled as "niche and independent", Milan and Paris still maintained the elegant positioning of traditional fashion, The open and diversified New York Fashion Week may allow us to see the other side different from the public perception, and also open a new world for the fashion industry 。

Julie Gilhart, a fashion consultant, once said: "If New York Fashion Week can become smaller and more refined, it may be the direction of our development."

On February 13, the fourth day of New York Fashion Week, Coach and Tory Burch, two American luxury brands, brought us a feast of American exquisite fashion aesthetics.

Coach, which has 82 years of brand history, reshapes the aesthetics and style of the brand's classic heritage on Park Avenue in New York, The ingenious hand made wool shearing and leather coats, through younger cutting and coloring, give these young people who travel through all walks of life in the city every day more freedom and more self-expression 。

"The inspiration of the autumn series comes from the belief in yourself, that is, when you are brave to express your true self, it will also affect people around you." Stuart Vevers, creative director, hopes that, Fashion can originate from life, rather than being high and untouchable 。 Therefore, this grand, exquisite and warm small party mode, which is different from the previous ready to wear shows, is a way for brands to try to bring consumers closer and enhance emotional exchanges.

Similarly, Tory Burch also portrayed the elegance and elegance of New York women with more simple and refined design in this season's show.

There is no complicated printing, through the splicing of different materials, silhouettes and diversified styles, as well as the use of high saturation colors in large volumes, adding more options for urban women's wardrobes. Skillful suits and smooth cut dresses can meet the dress requirements of different occasions. "Imperfection is perfection, and weakness can also become strength." This season Tory Burch aims to convey the fearlessness and self-confidence of self preservation, and encourage women to break the rules.

Freedom is the soul of New York. It has also become the theme of New York Fashion Week, where designers from all regions and nationalities can show their strength.

Compared with the past, the designer brands that held the show in New York Fashion Week this year are more diversified and pioneering, and the works of Chinese designers are even more powerful.

Private Policy, a brand founded by Li Haoran and Qu Siying, two young Chinese designers, often integrates social phenomena and environmental issues into the design language, bringing fashion expressions of exploration and long-term significance. The theme of this season is "We are all animals". Through jeans splicing and animal totem design, Explore the relationship between man and animals, man and nature. It is hoped that through the free law of growth with all things in the nature, fashion can be endowed with vital expression 。

Another Chinese designer, Jason Wu, made flowers bloom in the Guggenheim Museum by referring to the photography works of Karl Blossfeldt, a German artist in the early 20th century, from 1929 to 1930. Deconstructive tailoring inspired by men's clothing is applied to feminine details such as soft and sexy chiffon lace, exploring the organic combination of life and fashion.

In addition, the successful show of Vivienne Tam, Chocheng, Snow Xue Gao, Anna Sui, Sandy Liang and other Chinese designers also added a variety of colors to this season's New York Fashion Week.

Since the outbreak of the epidemic, this is a season of New York Fashion Week that is very bright and attractive both on and off the market. What is more unexpected is that innovative business models such as commercial cocktail parties and trade fairs, as well as the re interpretation of American fashion culture by designers, not only inject new opportunities into New York Fashion Week, but also re stimulate people's expectations for this Fashion Week.

However, for the New York Fashion Week, which has not yet completely gone out of "internal and external troubles", the diversified industrial model and entertainment marketing may be able to achieve some results in a short time and return to the center of the topic, but if you want to completely "rebirth from nirvana", you may have to embrace more challenges.