Electricity Supplier And Design: Where Is The Way Out For Domestic Fashion Designers?

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Jingan Temple, one of the most prosperous business circles, has a wedge shaped avant-garde building, 10 Corso Como, hidden in tall buildings. Usually there are fewer customers and most of the furnishings are from abroad.

The clothing, household, jewelry and other products of the hand are expensive.

It's about 4 kilometers away from the tide shop. There's a more familiar domestic Crawford on the middle of Huaihai Road.

In nature, these two stores are the epitome of a buyer's shop. One was born in Milan, Italy, and one started in Hongkong.

"Buying clothes abroad is basically a shopping mall. There is recognition and loyalty to some designers. The consumption in China is still at the stage of recognition."

In a Sino Dutch fashion dialogue held last week by the Holland consulate, Huang Jie, founder of Founder of MOCC, the designer's incubator platform, said.

Because there is no mature buyer shop model in the European and American markets, designers in the past have stayed in the upstream of the industrial chain, and have been struggling in the docking market and touch up business.

It seems that overnight,

Unanimously opened the tide card mode, do fashion show, sign designer, design incubator, in the electronic business platform no longer rely solely on the flow of dividends, have sought fashion, customized pformation, but also to the domestic struggling designers group brings a glimmer of dawn.

Due to the insight into consumers' need for personalization and customization,

Suning.com, vip.com and other electronic business platforms are trying to pform in the direction of C2B, providing channels and market resources for their own brands and designers and other craftsmen.

Business and design are changing at a commercial level.

Designers' difficulties

The so-called "buy shop" originated in Europe, mostly in the form of street shops. Shopkeepers are equivalent to a buyer and opinion leader who accurately controls the trend of the market, bringing different designers' fashions, accessories, handbags, shoes and other works into a shop to meet the demands of fashion and individuation.

Shopping shop is the mainstream shopping mode of the middle class in Europe and the United States. It is the embodiment of self class identity.

Overseas, these buyer shops have become hotbeds for designers.

Buyers or designers purchase works, display them in the store, or let designers put their works in the store for consignment.

No matter what kind of business model, the designer is a "bottom" place. As long as the work is seen by the buyer, and even a fixed supply relationship is formed, the designer will not worry about the market, and do not have to bear the cost of the store and the pressure of the stock.

Famous designer, executive director of the China Fashion Designers Association, and Chen Wen, winner of the 2015 Golden Summit Award, recently said that because of the maturity of the industrial chain, European designers could concentrate more on their own design links without having to be too distracted with financing, marketing, and channels, etc. compared with that, designers in China have already carried too many channels, marketing, capital and other non design burdens, and there are too many things to be developed by themselves.

The importance of design elements for the electricity supplier has opened up another way for designers, but at present, the road is still hard to walk.

3 years ago, the buyer shop was basically a blank in China. After two years in Beijing, Shanghai and other first tier cities, the buyer's shop now has about 200 homes in the country, but in the eyes of the industry, there are no more than 20 buyers in the real sense.

"At present, no domestic fashion designer can be regarded as a thrive."

Huang Jie said, because of the lack of buyer mode, domestic designers are not in a good position.

A fashion designer from the beginning of the idea to the last contact with the market, in the middle of the design, fabric selection, printing (the design sketch into the stereoscopic format of the model), production, branding (branding), channels and a series of steps, which link is not easy.

For example, because of the small sales volume, many designers can not afford the format price, and can not get good fabrics, so they can not find mass production in factories.

Now the usual pattern is that big designers look for small factories to produce, and small designers make their own workshops. "We say studio or workshop, you can understand that there are four or five tailors who can make clothes."

Huang Jie said.

For most Chinese designers, the most difficult part of the above production chain is the channel.

After a lot of people returned from abroad, their design ideals were shattered in the face of the reality of the domestic market. A common perplexity was repeatedly harassing them: "who will buy the clothes I designed?"

Last week, Suning held a fashion show in Shanghai. This is the first time that Suning, a retailer, has announced its business in this way.

Prior to this, vip.com, Jingdong and other electricity providers have also held T show, Tmall last September, put the show in the Asian fashion Seoul, South Korea held a Hanfeng fashion week, with a view to more Korean clothing and cosmetics brands through cross-border e-commerce channels to enter the Chinese market.

Behind the bustling show, it is the horse drawn enclosure for designers of different businesses.

Suning is now planning to set up a designer incubator to support independent designers. As early as October 2014, Dangdang, one of the main businesses of the company, has established a designer platform with the Chinese Costume Designers Association as early as October 2014. Dangdang CEO Li Guoqing then called on the platform to invest 1 hundred million of the platform to help designers find sales channels for their works.

Earlier, in 2011, fan Ke Cheng, who stirred up media nerves with "all objects", introduced a large number of designer elements into his T-shirts and other products.

More domestic designers choose to open shop on Taobao to find a way out for their own works, which also set the business platform and consumers' pulse.

On the one hand, an important direction of Taobao's pformation in 2016 is to create more brands, such as more designers, net red, two generations of farmers, geeks and so on, through Taobao content consumption.

On the other hand, consumers are showing more and more interest in designer elements.

Chen Wen, who owns his own brand, said some fans suggested that he put his usual design manuscript on the website shopping page or social media.

However, it is not easy to make a big difference on the business platform. Designers first need to adapt to the rules of the electricity supplier.

Chen Wenceng tried to sell his works in an integrated store in Hangzhou through the official website, but because of traffic and physical experience, he did not earn money by that.

In his view, the importance of electronic commerce to design resources is a good thing, providing a new channel for the domestic designers to contact the market, but at present, the difficulty is relatively large.

In order to let designers get more exposure and channels from their brands, Taobao has developed UGC and PGC platforms, including Taobao headlines, communities, shopping, good goods, daring people, Tao Tao and so on, focusing on commodity recommendation and sharing, combining with Youku, micro-blog and other media matrix, and trying to make sellers and factories directly butt joint.

Huang Jie said that the price of contemporary mainstream designers is usually 1000~3000 yuan in spring and summer, and 2000~6000 yuan in autumn and winter.

These designer works will first encounter pricing problems on the electronic business platform. In her view, the price is hard to detonate sales on the Internet, and those works within 800 yuan are more suitable for the business channel.

Suning chose to play the role of incubator in this regard.

In March 20th, Guo Dongdong, vice president of Suning cloud marketing headquarters, said that Suning plans to select excellent designer manuscripts by holding some competitions. During the process, designers will tell consumers' preferences (C2B) through big data. After designing drawings, Suning will contact the third party factories, the publishing houses, and other intermediate links, and then cooperate with the brand dealers to let the brands pay for the copyright of the designers.

At the same time, suning.com and offline stores provide display and sales channels.

In this mode, designers do not have to open their own stores. Their way of profit is to sell design copyrights and sell them with brands. Designers are more concentrated in the upper and middle reaches of the industrial chain. This is easier than designing and operating and marketing alone in Taobao stores, but Taobao has the advantage of opening up its own brand.

Taobao and suning.com, a C (platform mode), and a B (business mode), provide designers with the two way out.

Which path in the future will provide a broader stage for domestic designers and provide consumers with more and better choices remains to be tested by the market.